Monday, October 13, 2014

Trip Report to the Tadrart



   The plane Point-Africa was full of passengers. This is high season for travel to the Sahara, because the temperature is very lenient. We can barely glimmers through the window; the plane is on approach to Tamanrasset (Algeria).

   Dunes seen from the air

Dunes vues d'avion    

   Many passengers just descended. The sun rises behind the gigantic forms that emerge from the darkness. Some first photos from the bridge, waiting for the people who will come up here to return to France. We are a group of photographers, we just knew the name of each, and we ended up with our badge "Sahara photo tour, Oil Colors." But what fuels the conversation this morning, it's a missing person.
   Here's a sort of beige gray plain. Sand? gravel? Sediment? We distinguish very well in some dotted curves drawn by ancient rivers trees. These are wadis. No dwelling. No way. No self. Other curves, coming from the dark areas in the background. Other items vaguely green. Really trees? The hostess serves coffee. Nod to the window I see the dunes, short and smooth curves, black shadows. The sun rises, the plane begins its descent.
   Sand all around, more sand; reactors are almost cut; no runway in sight ...... Clash of the wheels on the track. A real black run, as I like. Small two-story buildings ... In the hallway, people are already up. Time to forget nothing and here we are on the bridge. The air is sweet and pleasant sun.

   A few more steps and we are at the entrance of the airport airside. "Djanet Airport 24.16.06 N and 09.27.06 E" Those who know are lining up by completing the form. We, we are sitting quietly in a cool place; you taste the morning air after a night of travel. It takes tickets reporting currency for import. Must declare valuables. We must have it with you or binoculars or GSM.

Patrick 
The thumbnails can be enlarged
   The bags were being followed. Not easy after leaving Paris, Marseilles change, stop in Tamanrasset. The Pope of the photo of the Sahara is here: Patrick Chatelier ahead with the drivers of the local agency. The border police have completed audits. We lack a good person. Patrick

Patrick Chatelier
   The road is very dark, surrounded by sand. We are a convoy of four 4x4 that goes to Djanet. We see mounds of sand and rocks. Further, we cross a small town, then a relief that leads to the entrance of the town we go along. Of sand colored houses that look very old are built on high ground. A large white wall clearly separates the Garden Route of the palm. 4x4s that seem to be a headless gazelle before we cross the hood. This is a water supply which is installed in front of the vehicle to be cooled by evaporation.

   "You need a scarf" I crossed the threshold. The shop is very small and it is very dark. You have to go behind the counter to choose the fabrics. A wide variety of colors. "I want the blue." The people are very hospitable. I sit on a bench and they quietly observe the lesson implementation of tissues on my head. "Three feet, it protects you from the sun and wind." "You can take longer, the chefs are up to ten meters."

Djanet
Djanet

Djanet
   We follow the movement of people who seem to get to a place of interest. Dates are exhibited in a variety of crates, merchants are side by side. Eyes closed, head resting on a log camel signals the entry of a butcher. The trail seems to lead us out of town, he leads us in the direction of the river; a group of workers is busy digging a tunnel under the dam to get a pipe. Last summer, there were heavy rains and flooding. A musician died washed away in his 4x4.

Trecking 

   Here we go. The convoy was formed jerricans of water and gas, food, mineral water bottles are loaded into the vehicles and the gallery is covered with a wood supply. Now we have to hurry, we have 150 km to go, including 30 tracks. The road is good and there is little traffic. The scenery does not change much, it may be time to doze ...
  The paved road is far behind, the terrain is gently undulating and composed of gravel behind us then sand before. It's time to take a little break, and the first photo pose. Looking for a foreground to compensate for the lack of relief, and bring out the walking group progressing in parallel with a mountain of highly weathered rock drowning in a huge dune. (Click photo to enlarge) Trecking
   The engine trouble, we ride between two dunes, the sand. The lead car made ​​a turn and stops; we have arrived at the site of the first camp. The place is called the "Black Dunes". In the distance, there are dark and rounded mountains that seem to be composed of highly weathered rock, as if all the rocks broke out and there are only huge heap of stones .. Nothing to do with the dunes. black dunes

Dunes noires
 
   We are at the foot of a magnificent dunes and the sun goes down at high speed. We must act quickly to capture the magical moments given by a long shadow and light that already turns orange. Some decide to climb the dune. I hesitate, because time is running. A group of camels back a valley a few hundred meters. I share in small steps, they progress quickly. The aim should be far ahead of them to cut them off and take pictures with the sun on the right side. I can see the man in front. Running in the sand. This is the "camel grass" is driving this movement, I understand when I see who stop. Man gets rid of their harness and binding their legs before a rope short enough to restrict their movements. The same purpose as the bells at the stroke of our cows. camel
   The mattresses provided by the local organizer, Zeriba trips are foam covered with fabric, and enough to be able to superimpose two numbers, which is not really necessary on the sand. If everyone want rapid deployment of my "2seconds" all ask me how long it will take me to fold tomorrow. "2 minutes included" The wind picked up a bit, it blows into the sunset, and Pascal explains that "there, it's warmer and the warm air rising is replaced by cooler air comes from the East. "The bag, too big, will remain on the outside, closed, and hiking boots. No chance of rain.

 
   Cooks, drivers, guide and musician sit at the table as soon as night falls, because they are fasting without drinking a drop of water since morning because of Ramadan. We were all the time. Our guide knows how to make tea "as well as women." The first water is discarded because it contains too much caffeine. Help keep the embers hot water to infuse the water for the second time. There are a lot of sugar but not mint. Changes in container along with the traditional oxygenation are just before serving.
   Dinner leaves considerable room for the soup, which has a good taste of stewed with tomatoes and spices, and in which there are always small pasta vegetables. You sit on a variety of large mats and goes plates, being careful, it's nice. At the table, you should avoid talking too much about the quality of meals, because here in Algeria, there is no culinary tradition, as in France. And in the midst of Ramadan, better know to be discreet. This does not preclude the quality to be at the rendezvous with vegetables at each meal. They get to keep the bread until the last days; I wonder how they do it, because the air is extremely dry.

Chameau
The campfire
   After dinner, the musician who sings and plays the lute improvised orchestra using the talents of percussionist a driver. Cans used to punctuate the songs. The atmosphere helping, others take up the chant. Jean-Pierre takes care of the sound. I still put on my summer parka because the wind was up, but this time he often turns and I will long remember the smell of burnt acacia. Our guide ranks minutely small tea glasses individually wrapped in paper and placed in a large metal box.

   The Tuareg are sleeping directly on the mattress without trying; Patrick also; us "tourists", we all carried our tent. I wondered if I could do without a shower for a week. Actually, the wipes are just fine. If it is suitable for babies, so why not us? I chose those that leave no deposit and I am very happy. I took a sleeping bag "0 degrees", in fact, the night, the air is fresh at home in summer; who can do more can do less. Tomorrow, standing at 6 o'clock with the photographic apparatus to attend the sunrise.

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